Welcome to Cusco, the city that’s much more than just a pit stop on your way to Machu Picchu. It’s a place where every cobblestone whispers stories of ancient empires, colonial conquests, and the enduring spirit of the Andean people. We spent a month in Cusco during February (which yes, is right in rainy season!) so here’s a collection of information based on everything we learned during that magical month.
Adjusting to the Altitude
Cusco sits pretty at around 3,400 metres above sea level, which can take your breath away in more ways than one. Give yourself time to acclimate and take it easy for the first couple of days to avoid altitude sickness. Your body will thank you, and you’ll be scaling those hills like a pro in no time. We felt a bit iffy for the first few days in Cusco, with headaches and tiredness (almost like a hangover I would say). Here are my top tips for avoiding and minimising the impact of altitude sickness:
- Stay hydrated – Less oxygen means breathing more, which means losing more water, so the best way to combat that headache is to drink!
- Coca leaves – A natural remedy for altitude sickness, you can drink coca tea or buy various sweets from the shops.
- Rest for a couple of days – For at least the first 2 days in Cusco aim to take it easy, don’t book any tours and be gentle with yourself.
Where to Stay in Cusco
Cusco offers a smorgasbord of accommodations, from cosy hostels that feel like home to boutique hotels that whisper luxury in your ear. If you’re looking for charm, character, and a bit of peace away from the bustling centre, the San Blas neighbourhood is your spot.
The Boleto Turistico
Heading to Cusco? You’ll need something super essential to explore the heart and soul of this historic region: the Boleto Turistico. It’s a ticket that grants you access to a lot of the main attractions in and around Cusco, here’s a snapshot of what awaits you:
- Sacsayhuaman: This colossal fortress is a marvel of Incan architecture and engineering, showcasing massive stones cut and stacked with astonishing precision.
- Qenqo: Dive into ancient Incan rituals at this archaeological site known for its unique rock formations and subterranean altars.
- Puca Pucara: Explore the remnants of this Inca military complex, offering stunning views over the rugged Andean landscape.
- Tambomachay: Often referred to as the “Bath of the Inca”, this site features intricate aqueducts and waterfalls that highlight the Incas’ mastery of hydraulic engineering.
- Pisac: The terraces and ruins of Pisac, perched in the Sacred Valley, offer breathtaking views and insights into Incan agricultural practices.
- Ollantaytambo: Step back in time as you wander through this ancient Incan settlement strategically situated between towering mountains.
- Chinchero: Known for its vibrant market and colonial church built atop Incan foundations, Chinchero offers a blend of history and culture.
- Moray: Marvel at these circular terraces believed to have been an agricultural laboratory used by the Incas to cultivate crops at various microclimates.
The Boleto Turistico is available for purchase at most sites it covers, but for ease and convenience, head directly to the COSITUC office in Cusco. Remember, cash in Peruvian soles (and occasionally your ID) is essential for the purchase.
There’s a couple of options available, we went for the full ticket which I’d recommend to get the most for your money:
- Full Ticket: Ideal if you’re here to see it all, valid for 10 days.
- Partial Tickets: Perfect for shorter visits or specific interests, with options focused on either the ruins around Cusco, museums and select ruins in Cusco and the southern valley, or key Sacred Valley sites.
Things to Do in Cusco
Lose Yourself in San Blas
This isn’t just a recommendation; it’s a must. San Blas is a little corner of Cusco where the city’s heart seems to beat a bit more artistically. This quaint neighbourhood is a tangle of narrow lanes, flanked by bright, welcoming doorways and peppered with workshops where artisans breathe life into their creations. Here, the air carries the scent of fresh coffee from hidden cafes, and every turn reveals a new vista of the city sprawling below.
P.s. While you’re here, be sure to pop into my favourite cafe L’Altelier for some avo toast and a coffee.
Step Back in Time at Coricancha
Qorikancha (or Corincancha) is nestled in the heart of Cusco and was once the Incas’ crowning glory, dedicated to the sun god, Inti. This site, now beneath the Santo Domingo Convent, reveals the Inca’s unparalleled stonework and architectural genius. Despite the Spanish conquest, which led to its partial destruction, Qorikancha’s legacy as a symbol of Incan spirituality and craftsmanship endures, offering a glimpse into the heart of the Incan empire. It’s a place where history deeply intertwines with the sacred, standing as a poignant reminder of a past both brilliant and lost.
It’s open Monday through Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Entry costs 15 soles (about US $5) for adults, and university students can enter for 8 soles (about US $3) with a valid student ID.
People-Watch in Plaza de Armas
Plaza de Armas is the central square of Cusco and where life unfolds in a kaleidoscope of colours. Grab a coffee or a beer at one of the balcony cafes and watch as the city moves below you as a patchwork of locals, travellers, and the occasional llama.
My favourite restaurant in Cusco, Morena, also sits on Plaza de Armas with great views over the square!
Conquer Sacsayhuamán
Perched above Cuzco, the ancient Inca fortress of Sacsayhuamán is a marvel of engineering and history. Constructed in the 15th century, its massive, meticulously fitted stones stand as a testament to the Inca’s architectural genius, surviving earthquakes and time itself. Though its full purpose remains a bit of a mystery, it’s thought to have served as both a stronghold and a sacred ceremonial site.
Sacsayhuamán is open from 7 am to 6 pm and you need a Boleto Turistico to enter.
Breathe in the Buzz of San Pedro Market
For a taste of true Cusco life, there’s no place like San Pedro Market. It’s loud, it’s lively, and it’s where you’ll find the soul of the city, one fresh juice or artisanal craft at a time.
Read more about it in my foodie guide to Cusco
Visit Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary
A haven for rescued wildlife, Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary offers a heartwarming experience. Here, you can get up close with Peru’s native animals, including condors, llamas, and alpacas, and learn about conservation efforts. The sanctuary is a testament to the local community’s dedication to protecting and rehabilitating vulnerable species. For more details on visiting, check out their Airbnb experience page here.
Hiking with Llamas and Alpacas
For a once-in-a-lifetime non-touristy adventure, go on a hike through the stunning Andean landscape accompanied by llamas and alpacas. This unique experience not only allows you to connect with these adorable creatures but also offers a new perspective on the natural beauty surrounding Cusco. You’ll learn about the importance of llamas and alpacas in Andean culture and meet a couple of the friendliest locals you’ll ever encounter. More information on this experience can be found here.
Where to Eat in Cusco
Cusco’s food scene is as diverse as its history. You can check out my full guide on where (and what!) to eat in Cusco, but here are some highlights:
- Morena: The presentation is as immaculate as the dishes themselves and it’s my favourite restaurant in Cusco!
- Pachapapa: Picture yourself in a cosy, hidden gem in San Blas, enjoying heartwarming, traditional dishes under the stars. If you’re curious about trying Cuy (Guinea Pig), this is the place to do it.
- Avocado: As you can probably imagine, this spot is a dream come true for avocado fans.
- L’Atelier: Your go-to for a touch of sweetness in Cusco where you can lounge with a cup of coffee paired with the most gorgeous view of San Blas if you’re lucky enough to get a balcony seat.
- Green Point: Even non-vegans fall in love with Green Point, the food here is absolutely awesome!
Day Trips from Cusco
Machu Picchu
This goes without saying, but Machu Picchu is a marvel that deserves its own day (or several) on your itinerary. Whether you’re taking the train or trekking one of the ancient trails, the journey to this lost city is as breathtaking as the destination itself.
Getting to Machu Picchu from Cusco involves a bit of adventure! Most folks (including us) hop on a scenic train ride to Aguas Calientes, the gateway town, and then take a short bus ride up to the ruins. Entrance to Machu Picchu varies, with the basic entry at around $59. It’s open from 6 am to 5:30 pm, but they usually stop letting people in after 2 pm.
To make things easier I would fully recommend taking a tour, we took this one and it included all the transport from Cusco to Machu Picchu as well as a guide around the site. I’d recommend opting for the vistadome train option which includes snacks and amazing panoramic views, well worth the extra £10 or so!
The Sacred Valley
Venture into the Sacred Valley for a day and uncover the wonders of places like Pisac, Moray, and the Maras Salt Mines.
We took a guided tour across the sacred valley and fed alpacas their breakfast, met a community keeping the weaving traditions alive, visited Incan ruins, and so much more. Check out the tour we did here, it was amazing.
Humantay Lake
For the adventurers at heart, the trek to Humantay Lake is a challenge rewarded with stunning views of crystalline waters set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.
The trail is a challenging yet rewarding journey (thanks to the altitude) and you’ll weave through breathtaking landscapes to reach the vibrant turquoise waters set against the beautiful backdrop of snow-capped peaks.
I’d recommend going with a tour as, unless you have your own car, I’m not sure there’s any way to get there from Cusco using public transport. This tour was incredible value and included all your food for the day as well as a guide for the hike and transport – all for only £20!
Rainbow Mountain
A newer star on the travel scene, Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) dazzles with its striations of rich red, ochre, and lavender hues, a masterpiece painted by mineral deposits over millennia.
Getting there involves a scenic but challenging trek of around 40 minutes – 1 hour, with the crisp mountain air thinning as you ascend. The hike isn’t for the faint-hearted, as the steep paths and high altitude test your limits, but reaching the summit reveals a surreal landscape that makes every step worth it.
Like many things in Cusco, a tour is the way to go and we took this one which meant we were the first people up the mountain before the crowds! I prewarn you, it does involve a 2:30am wake up call, but honestly it’s worth it for the beautiful peace and quiet you get once you reach the top.
Pisac
To me, the ancient ruins of Pisac easily rival Machu Picchu (think of them like a much less famous little sister). Plus, it’s one of the few things that’s easy to do without a tour or your own car!
To get from Cusco to Pisac, you can take a colectivo, which is a shared van or bus, from Puputi Street or Tullumayo Avenue in Cusco. Once in Pisac, I’d recommend taking a taxi up to the top entrance of the ruins and slowly making your way back into Pisac town by walk. This way, you can explore the magical ruins and take in the views over the valleys by making your way down into town (all downhill!). It will take you a couple of hours in total.
Beyond its renowned ruins, Pisac is a gem in its own right. The town is a vibrant tapestry of local markets, where artisans sell their crafts, from handwoven textiles to intricate silver jewellery.
So there you have it, your ultimate guide to Cusco, woven with the threads of history, culture, and adventure. Whether you’re here to explore the remnants of the Incan Empire, indulge in the culinary delights, or simply soak in the vibrant atmosphere, Cusco is a city that will capture your heart and refuse to let go.
