There’s a version of the Maldives that most people never see. Not because it’s hidden exactly, but because it requires a different kind of intention to find it. Forget the overwater villas and champagne sunsets that arrive at eye-watering prices. I’m talking about Dhigurah: a four-kilometre local island in the Maldives that gives you a sliver of jungle, white sand and turquoise water in the South Ari Atoll – and one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever called home.
We’d been bopping around busy places like Japan and India for a while, so we were really looking for a low-key island retreat with hopefully not much to do. That’s why we dedicated a month to exploring this place, which, even though it was right in the peak season (December/January), never felt rushed or crowded. We could try out all the local eateries multiple times, go scuba diving to our heart’s content, and really connect with the island’s way of life.
This guide is based on my experiences from that month, and so if you’ve been wondering whether the Maldives is possible without a resort price tag, the answer is yes. Dhigurah is proof.
How to Get to Dhigurah
If you’re looking for the simplest and most popular way to get from Velana International Airport to your guesthouse, a speedboat transfer is the way to go. Your guesthouse will set it up for you, and the trip usually takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. Expect to pay around $60 per person each way, and please bring seasickness tablets or bracelets with you if you’re prone to it! We were fortunate with pretty calm seas, but I’ve heard they can get bumpy!
Where to Stay in Dhigurah
As you’ll notice when you arrive, Dhigurah has a pretty fast-growing selection of guesthouses at various price points. We stayed at Horizon Dhigurah and had a genuinely lovely time. It’s comfortable, well-located, and the staff are so helpful with everything from organising diving to recommending where to eat – plus, breakfast is included! For a peak season stay, we paid around £80 per night.
For divers, when choosing where to stay, check whether your guesthouse has a partnership with a dive school; it’s a bit of a diving mafia over here, and you’ll be limited to diving with only the school your accommodation is partnered with.
Things to Do in Dhigurah
Cycle to the Sandbank
One of the most perfect things to do on the island is hire a bicycle and ride south through the jungle to the sandbank at the island’s tip. The path cuts through dense tropical vegetation, with occasional glimpses of the ocean on either side. Bike hire costs around £15 for a full day, but be prepared for the bikes to be in questionable but functional condition. The sandbank itself is a curving crescent of white sand that narrows to almost nothing, surrounded by brilliant shallow water. Go in the morning before the sun is at its highest, as there’s not a lot of shade around there, although there are some plastic umbrellas you can use for free if you’re lucky!
Bikini Beach and the Famous Palm Tree
Dhigurah’s designated bikini beach stretches for roughly two kilometres along the western side of the island and is, by any honest measure, one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever been on. Because the island is long enough to spread people out, it rarely feels packed. There’s a particular palm tree at one end that has become something of a landmark. It appears on Google Maps, which is how you know it has achieved genuine notoriety. Worth finding to get “the pic”.
Snorkelling from the Beach
The snorkelling directly off the bikini beach is lovely and requires nothing more than fins and a mask. The reef close to shore is accessible and calm, and turtles are a common sighting. We spotted them most days without any effort!
Scuba Diving
If you dive, or if you’ve been thinking about learning, Dhigurah is one of the best places in the Maldives to do it. The South Ari Atoll is home to world-class dive sites including Kuda Rah Thila, Manta Point, and Reethi Thila, and the marine life is extraordinary. Each guesthouse on the island has a partnership with a dive school, so the logistics are straightforward. Our guesthouse worked with Oceanholic, who were excellent: professional, knowledgeable, and good company underwater.
Over a month we completed 21 dives between us, which averaged out at around £53 per dive (the more you dive, the more discount you get!). Honestly, it isn’t a cheap hobby, but in the context of what you see here, it feels worth every penny. Whale sharks, manta rays, reef sharks, turtles, and an enormous variety of smaller reef life are all regular features.
Whale Sharks and Manta Rays
Dhigurah sits within what is widely considered the world’s only year-round whale shark aggregation site, which is the single most significant reason many people choose this island. These are gentle, filter-feeding giants that pose no threat to swimmers, and encountering one in open water is the kind of experience that you’ll remember forever.
A word of honest advice: the snorkelling tours to find whale sharks can be chaotic and crowded, with multiple boats and a large number of people entering the water at once. It can feel less like a wildlife encounter and more like a scramble. If you’re a confident diver, doing this by dive rather than snorkelling excursion is a significantly better experience. You’re more controlled in the water, you can keep a proper respectful distance, and the encounter tends to be calmer. We did one snorkelling excursion which cost £100 per person, and while we saw what we came to see, the diving encounters we had were far more memorable. If you can only do one, choose the dive.
Manta rays are also regular visitors to the South Ari Atoll. There’s a cleaning station near Dhigurah where they return to be tended by smaller fish.
Where to Eat in Dhigurah
The restaurant scene on Dhigurah is small but solid. Because it’s a local Muslim island, there’s no alcohol available, and menus lean towards Maldivian and Asian cooking, with some international options. Over a month, our favourite spots were Beach Fresh, Teapot, Tasty Cart, and Lime for dinners, and a beach food cart near the waterfront for cold drinks and lighter bites during the day.
There are a few well-stocked small supermarkets in the village where you can pick up snacks, fresh fruit, and drinks at local prices!
How Much Does Dhigurah Cost?
This is the question most people are really asking when they start researching a local island in the Maldives trip, and so I did the calculations on everything we spent while staying in the Maldives for a whole month.
In total, it cost us roughly £80 per person per day, but if you take diving out of the equation (since it’s a very expensive hobby) the figure drops to around £60. For the Maldives during peak season, with breakfast included and one of the longest bikini beaches in the country outside your door, I’d say that’s pretty darn good!
What to Know Before You Go
- The Maldives is a Muslim country, and Dhigurah observes Islamic customs in full. The island is entirely alcohol-free, with no exceptions. If you want wine with dinner or a sundowner beer, a local island isn’t the right choice and a resort island is where you need to be. If the absence of alcohol isn’t a concern, you’ll barely notice it.
- Modest dress is expected whenever you’re outside the designated bikini beach or the private areas of your guesthouse. This means covered shoulders and knees when walking through the village. The community is warm and welcoming, and a small amount of cultural awareness makes a real difference to how you’re received.
- You may be woken early by the call to prayer, particularly if your guesthouse is close to the mosque.
- There’s only one ATM on the island and it’s in the village in the north. Card payments aren’t universally available at smaller restaurants and stalls.
- Some construction is visible around the harbour area as tourism continues to grow. It didn’t significantly affect our experience day to day, but it’s worth knowing that Dhigurah is in a period of active development and will look different in a few years to how it looks now.
- Bring mosquito repellent because you will absolutely be eaten alive
Is Dhigurah Right for You?
Dhigurah isn’t for everyone, and I think it’s good to be clear about that. If you’re after easy access to alcohol or the kind of luxury that comes with a private island, then you might want to look elsewhere. But if you’re seeking the Maldives at a more laid-back pace, with amazing marine life and some of the most breathtaking beaches, Dhigurah is hard to top. I spent a month here and left feeling sad to go, which is probably the most valuable insight I can share with you!
FAQs
How do I get to Dhigurah from Malé?
The most popular option is a speedboat transfer organised through your guesthouse, taking around 90 minutes to two hours and departing twice a day.
How long should I spend in Dhigurah?
Three to four nights is enough to see the main highlights and relax. A longer stay is worth it if you plan to dive regularly!
Can you drink alcohol in Dhigurah?
No. Dhigurah is a local Muslim island and is entirely alcohol-free.
Are whale sharks guaranteed in Dhigurah?
The South Ari Atoll is widely regarded as the world’s only year-round whale shark aggregation site, making sightings more reliable here than almost anywhere else. Encounter rates for organised excursions are frequently cited as 70 to 80% or higher. Wildlife is never guaranteed, but your odds are very good.
Do I need to dress modestly in Dhigurah?
Yes, when in the village and public areas of the island. Swimwear is only appropriate on the designated bikini beach or in the private spaces of your guesthouse. Covered shoulders and knees are expected and appreciated everywhere else.
What currency should I bring?
SD is widely accepted and recommended. The local Rufiyaa is the official currency but USD works equally well for most transactions. There’s one ATM on the island, so bring sufficient cash to see you through in case of any issues.
