Bookshops are somewhere I can happily spend hours getting lost in. There’s something special about being surrounded by the calmness of books. It’s no surprise that most travel guides will list at least one bookshop you should visit to feed your imagination (and your Instagram feed!).
I stopped into El Ateneo Grand Splendid during my recent trip to Buenos Aires and instantly fell in love. It was named the most beautiful bookshop in the world by National Geographic in 2019 – and for good reason! It houses over 120,000 books, guaranteeing you’ll find a souvenir to bring home.
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I’m sharing a little about the history of this building and why the bookshop deserves a spot on your Buenos Aires travel itinerary.
The History of El Ateneo Grand Splendid
You’ll find this magical bookshop in the Recoleta neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, tucked in the El Grand Ateneo Splendid Theatre. This historical venue is over a century old, opening in 1919 and instantly becoming the centre of Buenos Aires’ cultural scene. It celebrated porteño culture with a stage for ballet and opera, as well as hosting the first ever ‘talkies’ shown in Buenos Aires.
Odeon, the national record label now owned by EMI, was initially based in this building. Singers like Carlos Gardel recorded on site, and LR4 Radio Splendid began transmitting from the building in 1923.
More than a million people now visit El Grand Ateneo Splendid to get up close and personal with a unique part of the city’s heritage. Whether you’re a theatre fan or a bibliophile, this stunning building feels like you’re being transported back in time.
The Most Beautiful Bookshop In The World
El Ateneo Grand Splendid Theatre was converted into a bookstore in 2000, beautifully preserving the building’s original décor and architecture, including its iconic dome, which features frescoes by Italian painter Nazareno Orlandi. This converted theatre is a book lover’s dream as a temple to literature.
The theatre boxes that once welcomed the city’s elite to watch operatic performances are now quiet nooks where you can look out across the bookshop or take a peaceful moment.
Even if books aren’t your thing, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is worth a visit to explore this beautifully preserved antique theatre. It looks like something straight from a black-and-white movie. This building perfectly captures the ‘old world’ architecture and Latin flair synonymous with Buenos Aires.
After you find the perfect book to commemorate your trip to Buenos Aires, stop by the café to refuel and read through the first chapter. The café sits on what was originally the theatre’s stage, giving you the chance to imagine what it would have been like to perform Verdi, Rossini, or Tchaikovsky in front of a captivated crowd.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid reflects Argentina’s love for literature. Buenos Aires has one of the highest number of bookstores per person in the world. There are over 700 bookstores throughout the city, with El Ateneo Grand Splendid being the jewel in its crown.
What to Know Before Visiting El Ateneo Grand Splendid
El Ateneo Grand Splendid is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Recoleta. Most tourists visit the area specifically to explore the bookshop. It’s one of the best free things to do in Buenos Aires, but you should expect a crowd!
Don’t forget to head next door to Guolis to buy alfahores; they have so many delicious flavours and are a perfect sweet treat after exploring the bookshop.
When Should You Visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid?
While there’s plenty of space to explore the bookshop, the stage café can get particularly busy and overcrowded. If you don’t want to wait for a seat, head there right after it opens or towards the start of your visit.
January, February, and October are the most popular months to visit Buenos Aires, so you should expect the bookstore to be at its busiest then. June is historically the quietest month, making it the perfect time to explore this piece of living history without the crowds.
Can You Buy English Books at El Ateneo Grand Splendid?
Ateneo Grand Splendid celebrates Argentinian culture and heritage, but you can expect to find many of the same books on the shelves here as you would in traditional bookshops.
You’ll find the English books near the back of the store by the cafe. However, the selection is limited and primarily focused on romance novels, with a few large coffee table books. If you’re looking for a unique souvenir to commemorate your time in Buenos Aires, pick up a copy of your favourite book in Spanish.
If you’re travelling with little kids, El Ateneo Grand Splendid has a lively section designed specifically for kids in the centre of the building down the stairs. You’ll only find Spanish books here, but your kids will still find plenty to enjoy.
Where Can You Take the Best Photos at El Ateneo Grand Splendid?
You’ll want to commemorate your trip to El Ateneo Grand Splendid, even if you’re not a travel blogger! Every nook and corner of this bookstore is worthy of a spot on your Instagram feed. It’s no surprise some tourists visit just to take a photograph inside the converted theatre.
You’ll find plenty of locals and tourists alike taking photos inside El Ateneo Grand Splendid. The most Instagram-worthy spot can be found at the top balcony. You’ll get a stunning view with most of the bookstore in the backdrop. Most people will wait to take a photo in the centre of the balcony, but you’ll get just as stunning of a photo standing a little off-centre on either side. This tip is great if you’re in a rush or happen to get to the balcony during peak tourist time. If you like to get your coffee into your travel photos, you can get beautiful pictures from the stage café.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid deserves a spot on everyone’s Buenos Aires bucket list as a stunning 1920s theatre at the heart of Argentinean culture and history. Are you looking for more travel inspiration for your trip to Buenos Aires? Check out all my travel guides here, including a 4-day itinerary to explore Buenos Aires like a local.
