First Time Guide to Kathmandu: Two Day Itinerary

Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal and a complete whirlwind of chaos, spirituality, and stunning beauty. Imagine prayer flags dancing in the wind above ancient courtyards and monks strolling alongside motorbikes in the bustling streets. I’d heard it called the City of Temples before I arrived, but the depth of history and culture completely took me by surprise – it’s a city that feels like it’s been around forever.

Manu and I spent a week in Kathmandu before heading up to Pokhara for a long stay around the mountains. We balanced remote work from our hotel during the week with weekend adventures to truly explore the city. After an intense camping road trip in Oman, we arrived with that familiar travel fatigue, but relaxing and catching up on emails from our hotel during the week left us ready and excited to explore Kathmandu by the weekend!

This first-time guide to exploring Kathmandu has got you covered with all the essentials: the must-see attractions, the best places to grab a bite, the top food tour in town, tips on getting around, and where to find a cosy place to stay. Whether you’re just stopping by on your way to a trek or planning to soak in the city as a destination itself, here’s what I’d share with a friend.

Suggested Kathmandu Itinerary

Kathmandu Travel Map

Things to Do in Kathmandu

Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)

The first place Manu and I checked out in Kathmandu was Swayambhunath, and let me tell you, it gave us one of those real “wow” moments! Nestled on a hill overlooking the western part of the city, it stands as one of the most important Buddhist sites in Nepal and is among the oldest religious monuments on the planet.

There are two ways to reach the top: you can either climb the 365 steps starting from the eastern entrance, where you’ll find shrines, prayer wheels, and a whole bunch of relaxed monkeys, or you can take a taxi to the western entrance and walk in from the top. We chose to take a taxi up and then walked back down the steps, which turned out to be the best of both worlds. The stairs are steep but manageable, and the descent really lets you see the site from a different angle.

The entrance fee when we visited (March 2026) was 200 NPR, but I’ve heard this is going to increase soon so make sure you’ve always got cash on you, you need it for taxis and snacks anyways! At the top, the great white stupa with the all-seeing eyes of the Buddha painted on each face looks out over the entire Kathmandu Valley.

After you’ve taken a stroll around the stupa, why not kick back at one of the rooftop cafes nearby? We decided on Mhendo Cafe, where we enjoyed our coffees with a perfect view of the dome. When our order arrived, the waiter set down a small slingshot next to our drinks, grinning as he said, “It’s for the monkeys.” We never needed it once, thankfully!

Kathmandu Durbar Square

If you want to grasp the intricate history of Kathmandu, you have to visit Durbar Square. This historic site was once the heart of the Nepalese royal family and is now recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It features a series of courtyards filled with beautiful pagodas, palaces, and temples that were built by the Malla kings between the 12th and 18th centuries. While the 2015 earthquake caused considerable damage, ongoing restoration work means the site still retains extraordinary charm.

The entry fee for foreign visitors is NPR 1,000, which also gives you access to the museum within the palace complex – definitely worth spending some time exploring. Arriving early is a good idea to dodge the tour groups and enjoy the lovely light. If you’re going to be in Kathmandu for more than a day or two, on your first visit, stop by the Tourist Police office in the square with your passport and request a long-stay pass.

Make it a point to visit the Hanuman Dhoka Palace, the residence of the living goddess Kumari, and take in the intricate carved woodwork that exemplifies Newari craftsmanship.

Boudhanath Stupa

While Swayambhunath may be perched on its own, Boudhanath is firmly planted in the midst of the city. As the largest stupa in Nepal and one of the largest globally, Boudhanath is located at the centre of a lively area in eastern Kathmandu, which has long been a welcoming home for Tibetan Buddhist communities.

This place offers a totally unique experience compared to anywhere else in the city. You’ll see pilgrims walking the circular path around the stupa at all times, turning prayer wheels and softly reciting mantras. The streets around here are dotted with monasteries, delightful Tibetan craft shops, and great cafes with rooftop views overlooking the dome. It’s a spot where you can easily spend a couple of hours, and the entry fee for foreign visitors is NPR 400.

An extra gem in the area is a stroll to Shechen Monastery (honestly, I just spotted it on Google Maps), where you can walk around the grounds, see the monks, and if you’re lucky, even join in with one of their prayer chanting sessions.

Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath, one of the holiest Hindu temples in the world, is beautifully situated on the banks of the Bagmati River, just a short distance east of Thamel. This temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is a significant pilgrimage site for Hindus from Nepal and India. It’s worth mentioning that non-Hindu visitors can’t enter the main temple area. Still, from the eastern side of the river, you can see the ghats, where Hindu funeral ceremonies are held with great reverence and dignity.

I entered with a sense of curiosity but honestly had no idea what to expect, and it turned out to be one of the most spiritually charged places I’ve ever been. There’s something about witnessing life and death so openly that really puts everything into perspective fast. I found it to be a moving experience rather than an uncomfortable one, but it’s all about your approach: remember what you’re witnessing, keep it quiet, and don’t disrupt anyone. You’ll often find sadhus (holy men) near the ghats, and many will gladly pose for photos if you give a donation. The entry fee for foreign visitors is NPR 1,000, and it’s worth every single rupee.

Thamel

Thamel is the first neighbourhood that greets most visitors; it’s the bustling commercial core of Kathmandu’s tourism, a maze of narrow alleys brimming with shops for trekking gear, souvenir stalls, bakeries, rooftop bars, and eateries serving everything from momos to pizza. It’s a lively, colourful place that can feel a bit overwhelming, but once you dive in, it’s a blast.

The trekking gear available here is fantastic and significantly cheaper than what you’d find at home. For souvenirs, be on the lookout for high-quality pashmina, singing bowls, thangka paintings, and locally made paper products. The real charm of Thamel comes alive when you step away from the main strip and wander into the quieter side streets, so make sure to explore a bit deeper.

Book a Food Tour

I always say a food tour is hands down the best way to explore any new city or culture, and in Kathmandu, this couldn’t be more accurate. Nepali cuisine is diverse and packed with flavour! The best dishes are often tucked away in spots that a first-time visitor would easily overlook, missing out on some real gems.

We took the Kathmandu Food and Drink Walking Tour, and it was one of the best choices we made on our visit. Our guide led us through the hidden backstreets of Thamel, showing us local spots that most tourists miss. We sampled over nine different dishes and drinks, including momos (which have quickly become my favourite Nepali food), lassi, sel roti, and chiya.

The highlight of the entire evening was definitely a delightful sweet lassi from a quaint little stall run by a charming couple. Our guide mentioned it was the only spot in the whole city where you could find that specific version!

Where to Eat in Kathmandu

Beyond just the food tour, Kathmandu boasts a vibrant and ever-changing restaurant scene that truly impressed us with its quality.

You can’t visit without trying momos. They’re everywhere, but for the best experience, seek out the small local joints instead of the tourist traps. Whether you go for steamed or pan-fried, and pair them with some zesty tomato achar. One of my personal favourites is 4Stories Cafe, just a short stroll from Thamel, where they proudly serve what they call “sexy dumplings.”

Dal bhat, the beloved national dish of Nepal, featuring lentil soup, rice, and seasonal veggies, is found all over the place and often comes with unlimited refills at local eateries. It’s incredibly filling and super affordable.

When it comes to a relaxed meal, Rosemary Kitchen and Coffee House has such a cute courtyard setting and I had some delicious Dal bhat and local wine here. Third Eye Restaurant offers fantastic Indian food, and their rooftop terrace is particularly delightful in the evenings.

And if you’re not in the mood to go out one evening, the restaurant at Aarya Hotel is honestly really good (I can attest to both the room service and the restaurant itself!).

Where to Stay in Kathmandu: Aarya Hotel and Spa

For a first visit, staying in Thamel makes life considerably easier as it puts you within walking or a short taxi ride of everything on this list.

We spent an entire week at Aarya Hotel and Spa, and it’s the one I’d fully recommend for you!

This heritage hotel is built with traditional Teliya bricks from Bhaktapur, and the handcrafted woodwork throughout means it doesn’t have that corporate hotel vibe; it feels like a special place that truly belongs to Kathmandu. The rooftop restaurant features a glass floor that overlooks a heated infinity pool, and the views of the Kathmandu Valley skyline at night are absolutely breathtaking. Plus, there’s a full spa, jacuzzi, sauna, and gym, which really helps after long days of exploring the city.

We arrived straight from an exhausting road trip through Oman, and the fatigue was still lingering. The Aarya was truly the perfect place to unwind.

Getting Around Kathmandu

For anything within Thamel and the old city, walking is your best option and often the most interesting one.

For longer distances, use InDrive. It works reliably across the city, and you set the fare upfront. I’d say to reduce stress, maybe avoid the local buses unless you’re experienced navigating them! They’re cheap but complicated, slow, and very crowded during rush hour.

How Many Days to Spend in Kathmandu

If you’re planning your first visit, three days is the perfect amount of time. This way, you can take in Swayambhunath, Durbar Square, Boudhanath, and Pashupatinath at a leisurely pace. You’ll also have room for a food tour, a nice walk around Thamel for some shopping, and a few tasty meals along the way.

You can bet that Kathmandu will take you by surprise. It has a knack for surprising just about everyone. The city is bustling and intricate, occasionally feeling a bit too much, but it’s incredibly generous with its history, cuisine, and the kindness of its people. If you give it a few days and some patience, you’ll discover it has so much to offer in return.

FAQs About Visiting Kathmandu for the First Time