Stepping into the unknown, embracing the untouched, and awakening to the majesty of Antarctica — my journey with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions aboard the MS Roald Amundsen was nothing short of a dream and I can’t believe I can say I’ve visited the frozen continent!
If you’re looking to travel to Antarctica yourself, you’ve no doubt started researching companies to go with and been met with a whole boatload (excuse my pun) of options. All of these vary in price, level of luxury and in my opinion the most important aspect: respect for the environment.
We boarded a 16 day expedition cruise travelling to both Antarctica and the Falkland Islands, here’s a heartfelt recount of this extraordinary adventure with all the information you’d need to know for those of you yearning to witness the Earth’s final frontier.
I was extremely fortunate that my journey to Antarctica was part of a press trip, however, all the views in this article are completely my own
About Antarctica
Venturing into the heart of Antarctica is like stepping into a storybook where the landscapes are woven from the purest white snow and ice, under a dome of the crispest, clearest sky imaginable. Here are a few fun facts about this extraordinary place:
- The Ultimate Desert: When we think of deserts, our minds drift to vast expanses of sand, scorching sun, and scarce rainfall. Yet, Antarctica turns this image on its head. It’s the driest place on Earth, believe it or not. With an average of just 2 inches of precipitation a year, it’s a desert not of sand but of ice, a realm where silence is a constant companion, save for the occasional crack of shifting glaciers.
- The World Upside Down: At the South Pole, an invisible pinpoint on this vast icy canvas, every direction points north. It’s a place where the concepts of east and west lose their meaning and time zones converge. Imagine standing at the bottom of the world, surrounded by a panorama of endless white under the midnight sun or the ethereal glow of the Southern Lights.
- A Treasure Trove of Fresh Water: Hidden in its icy depths, Antarctica guards about 70% of the planet’s freshwater, locked within its sprawling ice sheet. It’s a staggering thought – this cold, remote continent holding a reservoir vital to life on Earth, its existence pivotal in the narratives of climate and environmental science.
- Life’s Resilience: Antarctica’s extreme cold and isolation make it seem inhospitable, yet life, in its most microscopic forms, thrives. Bacteria, fungi, and a handful of hardy plants and animals (hello penguins!) have adapted to this icy desert, showcasing the resilience and adaptability of life. These tiny inhabitants are masters of survival, thriving in niches where one would least expect.
- A Sanctuary for Peace and Science: In an unprecedented gesture of international cooperation, the Antarctic Treaty was signed, designating this frozen wilderness as a sanctuary dedicated to peace, science, and exploration. It’s a place where military boots are replaced by research boots, where the only battles fought are those of understanding our planet and protecting its future.
Our Cruise Information
Length of the Voyage: 16 days
Our Trusty Vessel: MS Roald Amundsen
When We Went: December 2023
Our Cabin
We were so fortunate that our cabin aboard the MS Roald Amundsen was an Expedition Suite, a slice of luxury that was beyond anything I’ve experienced in my past travels. Not only did it have sprawling windows and a corner balcony that offered us an intimate view of the icy wilderness, but it also had a hot tub on the balcony (that’s right, a flippin’ private hot tub!).
The cabin was super spacious, which was such a luxury during sea days. We could relax with a coffee and a good book in our room. Every cabin on board has at least one TV, where you can look at the route map and even tune in to live or prerecorded lectures to prepare you for the days ahead.
When Should You Travel to Antarctica?
Visiting Antarctica each month offers distinct experiences:
- November: The spring awakening brings pristine landscapes and ice formations, with breeding season starting for many birds and penguins.
- December to January: Peak summer provides the warmest temperatures, longer days for exploration, and wildlife activity, including penguin chicks hatching.
- February to March: Late summer is ideal for whale watching, and as the ice recedes, more remote areas become accessible. This period also showcases dramatic ice landscapes and fledging penguin chicks.
The Itinerary
Embarking from Ushuaia, the edge of the world, our expedition set sail in mid-December 2023, weaving through the icy heart of Antarctica and the windswept Falkland Islands. Here’s a glimpse into the exact route we took, complete with a route map!
It’s important to note that while this was the route we took, now immortalised in the route map below and photos we receive a few weeks post-trip, every voyage is unique. Weather conditions shape the journey, ensuring no two trips are the same, making each expedition a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. If you travel early in the season like we did, you won’t be able to travel as far south as those who embark on their journeys a few months later, but there are pros and cons whenever you visit as I’ve listed above!
Ushuaia, Argentina: After arriving in Buenos Aires and staying overnight in the capital, we took a chartered flight south to Ushuaia, a town that feels like it’s perched at the end of the earth. I prewarn you: You need to be up early for this! Once in Ushuaia, there’s an included excursion for everyone to head to the Tierra del Fuego national park for a guided tour and lunch while the ship is prepared.
Drake’s Passage: The famous Drake’s Passage! If you’re researching a trip to Antarctica, you’ve probably heard of this. I’ll go into more detail below, but any trip to Antarctica requires crossing the infamous passage twice, taking four days in total.
Damoy Point / Dorian Bay: Finally, we arrived in Antarctica! The weather conditions were cloudy but stable enough to go on land, and our first Antarctic embrace brought us to Damoy Point/Dorian Bay. We did an optional activity of a snowshoeing tour which brought us past a few colonies of gentoo penguins and were lucky enough to be shortlisted for the camping excursion that night.
Fish Islands: After being picked up by the ship in the morning and having a celebratory breakfast on board, we headed to our next destination: the Fish Islands. Today was a zodiac cruising day rather than a landing (landing here meaning going ashore). We headed out on the zodiac boat and took a tour of some nearby colonies of gentoo penguins, some other groups also saw seals but we weren’t so lucky!
Cuverville Island: I remember it was a beautiful sunny day and we were able to see the magical Cuverville Island and there were SO many gentoo penguins here! This day, we also managed to stop at another point with fantastic views over the surrounding icebergs, but the name escapes me; however, it shows that occasionally, you’ll manage two landings in one day if the weather allows!
Cierva Cove: At Cierva Cove, the world seemed to hold its breath. Icebergs sculpted by the wind and waves floated by as we went out in the zodiacs to see this place that looked out of a painting! I believe there was even a leopard seal sighting around the ice!
Weddell Sea: This was our last stop in Antarctica and it was quite special – a sea ice landing! The conditions really need to be perfect for this as of course the ice has to be thick enough to allow for a landing but not too early in the season or the ship wouldn’t be able to get through the ice. Lucky us, we managed it! I remember everyone being on board standing at the balconies, watching as the crew went out on the ice to test the thickness, hoping we’d get the green light to head out!
Drake’s Passage (round two)
Stanley, Falkland Islands: After making another voyage across the Drake we had a complete change of scenery upon arriving at the Falklands! Stanley welcomed us with its quaint charm, a slice of Britain amidst the wild South Atlantic. You can imagine my delight in going for a cream tea and shopping at Waitrose so far away from home!
Saunders Island, Falkland Islands: The next couple of days had us away from the “capital” and into the beautiful untamed nature once again. Saunders Island whispered tales of old, its wildlife rich and landscapes rugged, a testament to the resilience of nature. Here we saw 5 different species of penguin who were all relaxing on the beach, a sight I never thought I’d see!
New Island, Falkland Islands: Onto New Island, where history and natural beauty entwine, with shipwrecks and old whaling stations scattered among colonies of seabirds and seals. It was another day full of penguins and we saw my favourite, the rockhopper penguin!
And then, before we knew it, we were heading back to Ushuaia, our hearts full, our cameras brimming with photos, and our minds forever changed by the sights and sounds of the Antarctic and the Falklands.
The Drakes Passage
Crossing the Drake Passage is an iconic rite of passage for any adventurer bound for Antarctica, a journey we had to undertake twice. Known for being one of the most tumultuous sea crossings in the world, it’s a stretch of water that tests the mettle of ships and sailors alike, lying between the southern tip of South America and the northern reaches of Antarctica.
We were incredibly fortunate with the weather during our crossings, experiencing what’s affectionately known as the “Drake Lake” — an unusually calm sea condition that belies the passage’s fearsome reputation. The crew even commented that it was the best weather they’d ever seen on this route! I must admit though we did say it would be nice to experience the rougher seas for maybe… an hour or so.
If you’re coming to Antarctica of course don’t assume you’ll be lucky like we were! Bring travel sickness tablets and be prepared to be feeling less than ideal for a couple of days.
Excursions and Activities
Our expedition to Antarctica with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions was like waking up to a new adventure every day. Imagine this: you’re in one of the most remote places on Earth, and you don’t know what you’re going to do until the night before, or sometimes, just after you’ve had your breakfast.
Surprise, Surprise! Every evening, we’d gather around, buzzing with anticipation, to hear about the next day’s plan. Or, we’d simply check the expedition’s app that evening or first thing in the morning while still snug in our beds. The app was a lifeline, keeping us updated with schedules, weather changes, and any spontaneous plans crafted by our expert expedition team.
Included Activities: Our days were packed with a range of activities included in the expedition. Zodiac cruises were an absolute thrill, taking us up close to towering icebergs and through crystal-clear waters to reach secluded spots teeming with wildlife. Then, there were the landings on the Antarctic mainland and surrounding islands, where we’d find ourselves mere feet away from penguin colonies or observing seals in their natural habitat.
Extra Adventures: For those of us hungry for more, the expedition offered some special, paid activities. We chose to camp overnight on the ice and try snowshoeing across the untouched snow. The camping is quite the magical experience so I’ll chat more about that in its own section below.
Camping in Antarctica
Camping in Antarctica is one of those bucket-list experiences that few can say they’ve lived to tell the tale. Imagine being one of the select few aboard the MS Roald Amundsen, given the chance to spend a night on the most remote continent on Earth. It’s not just any night out; it’s an adventure into the profound silence and untouched wilderness that is Antarctica.
This unique excursion is a rare opportunity, offered to passengers via a draw to keep the experience exclusive and minimise environmental impact. Only once per voyage do about 30 lucky adventurers (housed in 15 tents) get to experience the Antarctic night in its most authentic form.
Let’s not sugarcoat it — the night is cold. You’re given great equipment like a cosy sleeping bag and mats and most other people said they had a great nights sleep. But honestly? I was so cold! Still, it was absolutely worth it.
At dawn you see the ship returning and as you board you’re welcomed with a special breakfast before going about your day (which for me was immediately for a nap!). The cost is around $500 per person so it’s not cheap by any means, but it’s truly a bucket list experience.
How do the landings work?
Antarctica has many restrictions, and rightly so. This means that not everyone from the ship can go ashore at the same time. Instead, you’re all assigned to groups on your first day on board (we were the Adelie Penguins!). For each activity, there will be certain groups at certain times, which will all be listed on the app. They rotate the groups, so one day, you might be out first and the next day last, which keeps it fair for everyone!
For the zodiac cruising, you’ll be taken around and then brought back to the ship, so that’s pretty self-explanatory. For the landings, once you reach the shore, you’ll be told what time to head back (usually, you get up to an hour on average). It’s essential you stick to this time as if you’re late, it’ll delay the next group being allowed out. Of course, if you want to come back earlier, you’re welcome to.
If you’re on a paid for excursion you sometimes might be able to also do the landing/zodiac cruise for that day but this depends, they’ll let you know in the app or during the daily briefing whether or not it’s possible to do both.
Life on board: Sea Days
Sea days on an Antarctica expedition cruise are an adventure in their own right, a chance to dive deeper into the polar experience without even setting foot on land. Our 16-day voyage to the white continent included six of these days, crossing the infamous Drake Passage, which alone accounts for four days (two each way). So, what’s there to do aboard the MS Roald Amundsen during these stretches of sea time?
Science Centre – As a biologist myself one of the first places I found myself drawn to was the Science Centre. Here, you can peer through microscopes at things like phytoplankton samples freshly collected from the waters outside, and attend workshops lead by the scientists on board.
Engaging Lectures – The expedition team’s lectures quickly became a highlight of my sea days. Covering a broad range of subjects from the historical exploits of polar explorers to the intricate balance of marine biology, and even tips on capturing the perfect polar photograph, there was always something new to learn!
Sauna with a View – Relaxation took on a new dimension with the sauna on board. Imagine unwinding in the warmth while surrounded by the most incredible, ever-changing landscapes outside the window. It was magical to say the least.
Art Workshops – The ship’s resident artist, Sean, guided us through art workshops that were both calming and creatively stimulating. We dabbled in watercolours, trying to capture the essence of the icebergs and skies we’d seen, and also attended a couple of drawing workshops.
Dining with a View – Meals on the ship were an event in themselves. The dining experience, complemented by vast windows offering panoramic views of the passing ice and open ocean, elevated every dish served. The quality and variety of the food were also impeccable, as we were lucky enough to have dining in the Lindstrøm restaurant included in our package!
Wildlife Watching – At all times of the day the decks of the MS Roald Amundsen are fantastic wildlife lookout points. Wrapped in warmth, we watched as humpback whales and penguins occasionally accompanied our ship! There are usually always members of the expedition team around too, who will help point out and identify any species seen.
Biosecurity Protocols
Biosecurity on expeditions to pristine environments involves stringent measures to prevent the introduction of non-native species. Before embarking on landings, all equipment and clothing undergo thorough cleaning and disinfection. This includes vacuuming outer garments and disinfecting footwear to eliminate seeds or spores. Additionally, to prevent the introduction of bird flu in Antarctica, you’re no longer allowed to sit, crouch, or do anything other than be upright once on land – nothing but your boots can touch the ground!
Science on Board
The MS Roald Amundsen’s Science Centre and Citizen Science Programme offer passengers a unique blend of adventure and research. Equipped with state-of-the-art facilities and led by a team of expert biologists and scientists, the programme invites guests to engage in real scientific studies. Activities range from wildlife surveys to collecting microplastic samples and contributing valuable data to ongoing research projects. This initiative not only enriches the expedition experience but also plays a vital role in understanding and preserving the polar regions, you can contribute to real research!
Most days while in Antarctica there are “science boats” that you can sign up for the night before which are limited by number so it’s first come first serve. If you get a place on the science boat you’ll go out and help collect samples for the researchers on board, afterwards you can still do your landing as normal so you don’t miss anything!
This voyage to Antarctica with Hurtigruten was more than an expedition; it was a profound journey of discovery and reflection. For anyone looking to embrace the untamed beauty of the Antarctic, to stand where few have stood before, this is your calling. The landscapes, wildlife, and the serene majesty of the ice will stay with you, long after you’ve returned to the familiar shores of home.
