It’s safe to say I fell completely and utterly in love with Georgia, so much so that I stayed there for 2 months!
I spent 6 weeks in Mestia, working remotely, and we managed to do it all without a car. The truth is, the town is quite small, the main trails kick off right from the centre, and if you need to venture further, arranging shared taxis is a breeze once you’re there!
Mestia is the heart of Upper Svaneti, a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled in northwestern Georgia, perched at about 1,500 meters above sea level, with the majestic Greater Caucasus mountains towering around it.
When people think about travelling to Georgia, they usually picture spending time in Tbilisi, maybe heading down to Batumi, and if they’re feeling adventurous, making the trek to Kazbegi. Mestia often gets overlooked, and the reason is pretty straightforward: it’s not the easiest place to get to. But I think that challenge is only part of its charm!
This guide has everything you need to plan your visit: how to get there, the best times to go, what activities to enjoy, where to grab a bite, and where to stay.
Quick Mestia Factsheet
Getting there: Train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi (16 GEL, around 6 hours), then marshrutka to Mestia (35 to 40 GEL, around 3 hours). Or direct marshrutka from Kutaisi (40 GEL, 5 to 6 hours).
Getting around: Everything central is within walking distance, otherwise taxis (private and shared)
Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL).
Where to stay: Cottage in Svanland
Best time to visit: June-August for hiking
Insurance: Required medical insurance from Jan 2026
Getting to Mestia
The journey to Mestia deserves mention because, well… it’s not easy! The final stretch of road climbs through mountain passes and follows river gorges that are spectacular, windy, bumpy and long (if you’re prone to travel sickness, take a tablet before you set off!).
We arrived into Georgia at Kutaisi Airport and booked a shared transfer with Budget Georgia at 80 GEL (£20) for the 5 hour drive. We used them a couple of times across our 2 month Georgia trip and I can only recommend them!
If you’re landing into Tbilisi, the most affordable option is the shared marshrutka from Didube Bus Station, which leaves around 7am and takes up to 10 hours with a stop in Zugdidi. A more comfortable combination is the train to Zugdidi followed by a marshrutka from there.
Where to Stay in Mestia
We stayed at this beautiful cottage for the full month, it’s on a family-run campsite a short walk from the heart of Mestia, owned by a lovely local family who are really keen to share their culture with you. There are friendly rescue dogs and cats wandering the garden, views of Mount Laila and the medieval towers, and a whole load of peace and quiet.
For us, coming off a long search for somewhere with any kind of kitchen in Mestia, finding this place felt like a small victory. Self-catering options in town are rare, and having the ability to cook our own meals made a real difference over 6 week stay.
One thing to note: the wifi is iffy. Manageable if you’re working remotely and prepared for it, but don’t expect reliable video calls every day. Everything else, the space, the views, the family, the animals, is absolutely gorgeous and more than makes up for it.
Things to Do in Mestia
Hike to Koruldi Lakes
This is the main event, and it earns the reputation, but be prepared for a difficult hike, especially if you start all the way from town as we did! The full ascent gains around 1,200 metres of elevation over eight hours and the climb to the cross is the section that will make you question your life choices – you can download the full GPX track in advance.
My genuine recommendation is to take a 4×4 taxi up to the cross first, around 100 to 150 GEL negotiable, and start the hike from there. This will cut out the most brutal part of the ascent (where there are no views anyway) and leave you at a tiny local cafe right by the cross where you can get a coffee with the view before you set off.
From the cross, the trail climbs through pine forest and alpine meadow to a ridge at around 2,700 metres where the lakes sit just below the north face of Mount Ushba. The views up here are exceptional and there are horses grazing near the cross and along the lower trail. Most of them are lovely. One of them came for me with some purpose. Just something to know.
Trek to Chalaadi Glacier
The Chalaadi Glacier walk is the more accessible alternative, taking two to three hours return and ending at the snout of a glacier fed by the peaks above Mestia. It’s a good one to start with if you’re building up to Koruldi, more of a gentle introduction to the landscape than a serious hike. A practical note: taxis and marshrutkas will take you to the trailhead and wait for you to finish before bringing you back, which makes the logistics very easy and removes the need to walk the road section in either direction.
Hike the Chkhuti Ridge
If you’ve done Koruldi and want something even harder, or if you’re spending long enough in Mestia to fit in a second serious day hike, the Chkhuti Ridge is worth knowing about. It starts right from the main square in town, climbs northeast through forest and pasture onto a narrow ridge with panoramic views of Ushba to the left and Tetnuldi and Gestola to the right, and keeps going as far as you’re willing to take it, with a maximum elevation of around 3,100 metres at the three stone cairns that mark a natural turning point.
It’s a 23 km round trip with nearly 1,900 metres of total climb, which puts it firmly in the hard category. We turned back at the ridge rather than pushing all the way to the cairns, and even stopping there the scenery was exceptional. Unlike Koruldi, there are no jeep roads and no grazing animals, so the trail feels remote and the wildflowers on the upper sections in summer are spectacular.
If you only have time for one hike, do Koruldi. But if you have more days and good legs, Chkhuti is the one fewer people talk about. Download the GPX track before you go as the trail is not always obvious.
Ride the Hatsvali Cable Car
Cable car to Zuruldi Ridge is about 30 GEL return and from the top station you’ve got two choices: left along the ridge gives open Caucasus views, easy walking, good for photos.
Right eventually leads to the flying swing and a beautiful cafe/restaurant, which puts you out over the valley and is either thrilling or deeply uncomfortable depending on your wiring. A path from the swing descends to the lower station, so you don’t have to go back the way you came.
We actually went up twice during our time in Mestia. The first time we went left along the ridge and walked until the views opened up completely. The second time we went right, did the swing, and descended back into Mestia on foot from there. Both routes are worth doing but if you have to choose one, go for the swing!
Watch Dede at Pub & Cinema DEDE
One of the most unexpectedly special evenings you can have in Mestia is watching Dede at the town’s tiny pub-cinema on Tamar Mefe Street. Dede is a 2017 Georgian drama filmed in Ushguli, based on a true story from the Svan community, following a young woman navigating arranged marriage and the rigid traditions of the region.
The cinema itself is cosy and owned by the director of the film, with some of the actresses also working at the bar. You can watch the whole thing with a glass of local wine in your hand, and tickets are 20 GEL. Watching it after a few days in Mestia, with the towers and the landscape already in your mind, gives it a completely different weight than it would have anywhere else. Don’t skip it.
Explore the Svan Towers
The towers are everywhere in Mestia, and most visitors photograph them from a distance without going inside any of them. There are a few that you can visit and climb up to to the top and I’d recommend doing so with the caveat that health and safety really isn’t a thing here – you’ll be climbing up old ladders with a fair drop and I’d be lying if I said Manu didn’t have to help me climb down!
The one shown below is Khergiani Tower which costs 3 GEL to climb, there are a few other dotted around Mestia that offer more of a museum experience for a slightly higher price (7-10 GEL).
Day Trip to Ushguli
Ushguli sits at around 2,200 and the drive from Mestia takes about two hours each way on a road that is rough, spectacular, and only manageable in a 4×4. Without your own vehicle, the easiest approach is to find other travellers at your guesthouse and split a shared taxi, which costs around 200 to 250 GEL per vehicle return. Ask your host the evening before and in summer you’ll almost always find someone to share with. The village has its own cluster of Svan towers, extraordinary mountain views, and a pace of life that makes Mestia feel hectic by comparison. You can also book a guided day tour through GetYourGuide from around $42 if you’d rather have everything sorted in advance.
The Mestia to Ushguli Trek
If hiking is the main reason you’ve come, this is what people mean when they talk about Mestia as a hiking destination. Across four days you’ll visit remote Svan villages and high passes, the landscape shifting dramatically between stages. You’ll stay in village guesthouses along the route, and no guide is required (but there’s always the option to hire one if you’d prefer!).
Starting from Mestia, you’ll make your way to Ushguli (the highest settlement in Europe) before catching a shared marshrutka back. I remember our car was full of day trippers who couldn’t believe we’d walked all the way there! It’s a beautiful experience and one I’d recommend to anyone visiting Georgia.
Where to Eat in Mestia
6 weeks in Mestia means I ate my way through most of what the town has to offer. These are the places I’d go back to and would absolutely recommend to you:
Lushnu Qor is a classic Mestia evening: sit outside, order a glass of local wine (which will arrive filled completely to the brim, just so you know), and work through some properly good kebabs. Simple, relaxed, and exactly what you want after a long day on the trails.
Vichnashi is where the locals eat and it shows. Portions are enormous, the service is friendly, and the menu covers all the Svanetian staples done well. We ate here several times over the six weeks and it never disappointed.
ERTI KAVA Cafe is a great breakfast, brunch, or afternoon cake spot with good coffee and decent bites on offer. Reliable and mellow enough to sit in for a few hours.
Coffee Kor was our go-to for a takeaway iced latte on the way to a hike. If you’re not in a rush, head upstairs: there’s some chill seating and a nice atmosphere to sit and work or wind down in.
Khinkali House does exactly what it says: dumplings in meat, mushroom, and cheese, big portions, cheap, no fuss. Good for lunch after a morning hike when you’re hungry and don’t care about the surroundings.
Twin Peaks is the most polished option in town. Georgian and modern fusion dishes, a wine list with some thought behind it, and delicious cocktails.
Cafe Laila is probably my favourite place in Mestia. It gets livelier than the others, with live music and traditional dancing some evenings. The kubdari and all kinds of khachapuri are amazing, and honestly everything we tried was amazing. Go at least once in the evening and stay as long as you can.
Georgian Bread Bakery: literally search that name on Google Maps, it’s right next to Coffee Kor. They sell traditional Georgian bread which makes for the best hiking snack going. It’s very affordable, and even better when you track down the local honey seller along the main road in Mestia to buy a jar to dip it into. We made a habit of picking up both before any early start and I can’t overstate how good a combination it is.
Mestia has a way of staying with you. I still think about it more than almost anywhere I’ve spent time in the last few years: the towers, the food, the view from the Koruldi ridge, the family at the cottage and their animals wandering around the yard on a quiet evening. It’s a place that rewards the effort of getting there in full.
If you’re planning a trip to Georgia and wondering whether to add it to your itinerary, the answer is yes. Give it at least a week. The marshrutka is worth it.
FAQs
How long should I spend in Mestia?
Three to four days cover the main hikes and sights at a sensible pace. A week gives you room for rest days, the Ushguli trip, and the longer routes without feeling rushed. I spent a month working remotely and have no regrets, but a week is the realistic minimum if you want to properly explore.
Can I visit Ushguli as a day trip from Mestia?
Yes. Shared 4×4 return is around 200 to 250 GEL per vehicle: find people to split it with at your guesthouse. The road is rough and takes about two hours each way. Ushguli is worth it. If you have the time and legs, the four-day trek between the two is one of the better walks in the Caucasus.
Is Mestia worth visiting in winter?
For skiing at Hatsvali and Tetnuldi, yes. For hiking, no. Higher trails are shut from November onwards and a lot of guesthouses and restaurants either close or cut their hours significantly.
What’s the best hike in Mestia?
Koruldi Lakes. The views of Mount Ushba from the ridge are exceptional and it’s the hike people come here for. For something shorter, the Chalaadi Glacier walk is the better pick.
Is Mestia safe to visit?
Yes. It’s one of the safer destinations in Georgia for independent travellers. The main practical safety considerations are on the trails rather than in town: weather at altitude changes fast and the higher routes shouldn’t be attempted without offline maps and proper gear.
Do I need a car to visit Mestia?
No. We spent a full month there without one. The main hikes start from the town centre on foot, the cable car is walkable, and taxis for anything further are cheap and easy to arrange. For Ushguli, finding other travellers to split a shared 4×4 is straightforward in summer. A car gives you flexibility on timing, not access.
