Madeira has got to be one of the most underrated places I’ve been. It’s the kind of destination where one minute you’re hiking across cliffs with Atlantic views, and the next you’re swimming in natural rock pools or driving through clouds on a road that looks like it belongs in Jurassic Park.
We spent a week road tripping around the island, hopping between misty forests, tiny mountain towns, volcanic beaches and the kind of hikes that leave your legs aching but your camera roll full. It felt like there was something completely different to explore every single day – and we barely scratched the surface.
If you’re heading to Madeira and want a mix of nature, adventure and a bit of local charm, this itinerary should give you a good starting point. I’ve included everything we actually did – what I loved, what I’d skip, and all the small bits in between that made the trip so special (like the farm cat who greeted us every day and genuinely made me emotional when we left).
Let’s get into it – here’s how to spend one week in Madeira.
Where to stay?
The little house we stayed in during our travels to Madeira was the definition of perfection – tucked away in the mountains and we were welcomed to help ourselves to the fresh fruits and veggies that grew in the farm that surrounded us. Plus, it only cost around £40 per night!
To top it all off, the farm had a cat who would greet us each day after our adventuring and walk us back to our house (we named him Pico!).
Sold out? Check out some more options for places to stay in Madeira below
Top places to stay in Madeira
When to go?
Madeira’s weather is famously unpredictable thanks to all the microclimates, so no matter when you visit, just be prepared for a mix of sunshine, fog, and possibly a surprise downpour or two.
We went in May and I’d say it’s a pretty ideal time – warm enough for swimming and hiking, but not unbearably hot. Plus it’s before the busy summer crowds really kick in. Spring and early autumn tend to be the sweet spots if you want decent weather without the chaos.
That said, Madeira’s a year-round destination. If you’re into flowers, April and May are great for blooms. If you’re all about hikes and views, you’ll be fine almost any time of year – just bring layers.
How to get around?
I’m going to be honest – renting a car in Madeira is pretty much essential. You can get around using public transport if you’re based in Funchal and don’t mind sticking to the more popular spots, but if you want to explore the wild, remote corners of the island (which you absolutely should), a car gives you way more freedom.
Some of the best places we visited were totally off the beaten path – places you’d never get to on a bus. Having a car meant we could do sunrise hikes, stop wherever looked interesting, and take winding roads just to see where they went.
If you’re nervous about the driving, don’t worry – most of the roads are in great condition. Just expect a few steep climbs, narrow bends, and the occasional local who overtakes like they’re in the Grand Prix. It’s all part of the adventure.
Day One: Ponta de Sao Lourenco, Praia de Maiata and Santana
Ponta de São Lourenço
We started the trip with a bang – this hike was one of my favourites. Ponta de São Lourenço is the eastern tip of the island and feels totally different from the rest of Madeira. Think wild cliffs, crashing waves, barely any trees, and huge views in every direction.
It’s one of the more popular walks on the island (you’ll hear it called the PR8 trail), so if you can, start early. If there’s a cruise ship docked, it can get busy fast. We began the hike before 10am and had most of it to ourselves.
It’s not too difficult, and the views are absolutely worth it. There’s a little café at the end where you can grab a drink before walking back the same way.
Praia de Maiata
After the hike, we were desperate for a swim – and this beach hit the spot.
Praia de Maiata is on the north coast and has the kind of dramatic black sand that makes you feel like you’ve landed on another planet. It’s not the easiest to find, but that’s part of the charm – when we went, we had the whole place to ourselves.
Don’t expect sun loungers or facilities – this is a proper wild beach. Bring snacks, bring water, and bring your swimmers if you’re up for a cold dip in the Atlantic.
Santana
On the way back, we made a quick stop in Santana to see the traditional thatched houses. You’ve probably seen them in photos – small, triangular, colourful little cottages.
In reality, there are only a handful left, so don’t expect a full village of them. But they’re cute, easy to swing by, and make for a fun little stop if you’re already in the area.
Day Two: Levada 25 Fontes and Porto Moniz
Levada 25 Fontes
This is probably one of the most popular hikes on the island, and you’ll see why. It’s lush, green, and leads to a set of waterfalls that tumble into a cold, clear pool at the end. The trail is well-marked and not too strenuous, but there is a long tunnel section (about 800 metres), so bring a torch or make sure your phone’s charged.
That said, if I’m being totally honest, it wasn’t my favourite hike of the trip. It’s beautiful, yes, but it gets really busy, especially around the waterfall. If you’re short on time or just not in the mood to be around big groups of people, this is one you could skip without too much FOMO.
You’ll see the word ‘Levada’ a lot in Madeira. These levadas are irrigation channels that were built centuries ago to distribute water from the mountains and capture rainfall, ensuring a constant water supply for agriculture across the island. Today, levadas not only serve their original purpose but also offer incredible hiking opportunities, providing access to remote and picturesque parts of Madeira.
what’s a levada anyways?
Porto Moniz
After the hike, we drove over to Porto Moniz, a little coastal town best known for its natural volcanic rock pools.
The pools are filled with seawater and protected from the waves, so it feels like swimming in a giant outdoor saltwater bath. The views are epic and the whole area has a relaxed, slightly old-school holiday vibe. There’s a €3 entry fee and proper changing facilities, so it’s easy to spend a couple of hours just floating around.
If you’re hungry, there are loads of restaurants nearby that serve super fresh seafood — plus pastel de nata, of course.
Day Three: Canyoning and Levada dos Balcões Bird Watching
Canyoning
This ended up being one of the absolute highlights of our trip.
If you’ve never tried canyoning before (I hadn’t), Madeira is an amazing place to give it a go. You suit up in a wetsuit and helmet, then hike, climb, jump, and abseil your way through river canyons and waterfalls. It sounds intense, but if you book a beginner-friendly tour, it’s super doable – even if you’re not the outdoorsy type.
The guides were great, the scenery was stunning, and it was such a fun way to explore parts of the island you’d never see otherwise. I was buzzing for hours afterwards.
Highly recommend booking in advance, especially during peak season.
Levada dos Balcões
In the afternoon, we took it down a notch with a gentle walk to the Levada dos Balcões viewpoint.
It’s a short, easy trail through a forest that ends in a viewpoint overlooking the Ribeira da Metade valley. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the island’s central peaks, and sometimes even spot birds like chaffinches or Madeira firecrests flitting around.
Bring a bit of birdseed with you (trust me), and you might make a few feathered friends at the viewpoint.
Bonus tip: there’s a hidden gem of a restaurant along the trail called Snack Bar Flor da Selva. We stopped there after the walk for a late lunch and it was so good. Super friendly service, tasty food and the kind of views that make you want to stay all afternoon.
Day Four: Fanal Forest and Seixal Beach and Natural Pools
Fanal Forest
This place feels like something out of a fantasy film.
Up in the north of the island, Fanal Forest is filled with twisted, ancient laurel trees and rolling green meadows that get cloaked in thick fog more often than not. It’s eerie, peaceful, and properly atmospheric like you’ve stepped into another world.
We arrived around 9am and the fog was so thick it felt like walking through a dream. I’ve never seen anything like it. There are loads of small trails you can take around the forest, but even just pulling over and wandering a bit is worth it.
There’s a parking spot called “Faial Parking” that’s the easiest place to start from if you’re driving.
Check out my full Fanal Forest guide here
Seixal
After all that misty magic, we headed down to Seixal, one of my favourite beach spots on the island.
The black sand here is incredibly soft, and cliffs and waterfalls back the whole beach; it’s dramatic in the best way. There are also natural swimming pools nearby, a bit like the ones in Porto Moniz but more rugged and far less busy.
No changing rooms or loungers here – just lava rocks, clear water, and amazing views. It’s completely free, and the vibe is really peaceful. If you can time your visit with low tide and good weather, it’s perfect for a refreshing dip after your forest wander.
Day Five: Valley of the Nuns and Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo Hike
Valley of the nuns
We started the day with a visit to Curral das Freiras, also known as the Valley of the Nuns. It’s tucked away in a volcanic crater, surrounded by jagged mountain peaks, and feels properly hidden away from the rest of the island.
There’s a brilliant viewpoint called Eira do Serrado where you get a full panoramic view of the valley below. From there, you can drive down into the village itself for a wander and maybe a bite to eat. It’s a small place, but really peaceful and a great contrast to the dramatic scenery around it.
The village is known for its chestnuts, so keep an eye out for chestnut cake, chestnut soup… chestnut everything, really. We ate at Sabores do Curral, and it was cosy, hearty, and exactly what we needed before the hike later.
Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo Hike
This is the big hike and the most famous on the island, and for good reason. It connects two of Madeira’s highest peaks, and the views are absolutely unreal.
It’s an out-and-back route that takes around 6-7 hours, with loads of ups and downs (your legs will feel it). You’ll pass through tunnels, ridge paths, and cloud inversions that make you feel like you’re walking above the sky.
We started mid-afternoon so we could catch sunset on the way back. Best decision ever – the trail was much quieter, and seeing the mountains glow golden was pure magic. Make sure you have layers and a head torch if you’re walking back after dark.
You can drive straight up to the start at Pico do Arieiro and take it from there. Even if you don’t do the full hike, it’s worth visiting just for the views from the car park.
Day Six: Exploring Funchal City
After a few days of hiking, climbing and canyoning, it was nice to slow things down and spend a day in Funchal, Madeira’s capital. It’s the perfect mix of coastal views, colourful streets, and little pockets of nature.
Monte Palace and Cable Car Ride
We started with the cable car ride from the seafront up to Monte. It’s a bit touristy, sure, but the views over the city are worth it. Once you’re up there, head to Monte Palace Tropical Garden – it’s massive, peaceful, and filled with exotic plants, koi ponds, tile art and the occasional peacock.
It’s been voted one of the most beautiful gardens in the world, and to be honest, I get it.
Check out my full Funchal guide here
Wicker Toboggan Ride
Now for something totally random: the toboggan ride.
Yes, it’s a thing. You hop into a big wicker basket and two men in white outfits and straw hats (called carreiros) steer you down the steep streets of Monte, using rubber-soled shoes to brake. It sounds mad (and it kind of is) but it’s also a fun way to get back into town. Bit chaotic, very unique, and one of those “only in Madeira” experiences.
After all that excitement, we went to O Velho Pescador for dinner. It’s a bit tucked away, but the food was fantastic. Really fresh seafood, lovely service, and a relaxed vibe that didn’t feel touristy at all.
Funchal surprised me as it’s lively without being hectic, and there’s so much more to it than I expected. Definitely worth spending a full day here if you’ve got the time.
A week in Madeira felt like way more than seven days. It’s one of those places that’s constantly surprising – every time we thought we’d seen the island’s best side, it would throw something else at us. Another hidden viewpoint, another dramatic trail, another black sand beach with no one else around.
What I loved most was the variety. One day you’re trekking across moonlike cliffs, the next you’re swimming in volcanic rock pools or walking through a misty forest that feels like a film set. And in between all that? Good food, kind people, and a pace of life that makes you want to slow down and stay a little longer.
If you’re into hiking, nature, and a bit of quiet adventure, Madeira really delivers. This itinerary should give you a solid foundation – but leave space for detours, slow mornings and spontaneous stops. That’s where the best memories tend to happen anyway.
