So I’ll be honest here right at the start: we didn’t see anything from Poon Hill. We woke up at 4am on a cold, wet April morning, pulled on every layer we owned, hiked up in the dark through freezing rain, and stood at the famous viewpoint looking at a wall of fog.
And yet I would still recommend the Poon Hill trek without hesitation – just perhaps with a more mindful eye on the weather forecast!
This is one of the shortest treks in Nepal, where you can still find epic mountain and valley views (regardless of the summit conditions), and the route itself, particularly if you take the lesser-known stretch through Tolka, is worth every step. We completed this trek in April 2026 as a bit of training before doing the Mardi Himal trek from the same base in Pokhara a few weeks later. While the two experiences could not have been more different, Poon Hill earned its place as a genuinely wonderful introduction to the Annapurna region.
Here’s everything you need to know to prepare yourself for the Poon Hill trek, with details on the route, what to pack, whether you need a guide and… well just about anything else I could think to mention!
Check out my guide on the Mardi Himal trek too!
What Is the Poon Hill Trek?
The Poon Hill trek is a circular route through the Annapurna Conservation Area; most commonly, people take 3 days to finish it. It tops out at 3,210 metres at Poon Hill viewpoint, making it one of the more accessible Himalayan treks for beginners and those with limited time.
The route we took was slightly different from the norm; we went up through the forest to Ghorepani, then early morning to Poon Hill, then down and across to Ghandruk, then over to Tolka before finishing in Kande. The itinerary we used with Great Adventure Treks added Tolka as an overnight stop on day three, a detail most standard guides skip entirely, and it turned out to be our favourite day of the whole trek.
At 3,210 metres, altitude sickness is rarely a concern on this route, which makes it a great option for first-time trekkers or anyone building up to a longer or higher expedition.
Best Time to Do the Poon Hill Trek
Spring and Autumn are the two reliable seasons for trekking in Nepal, and Poon Hill is no exception.
We went in April, which falls in the heart of spring and is widely considered one of the best times for rhododendron blooms. This turned out to be both the making and the undoing of our experience as while the flowers were extraordinary, everything else was pretty brutal!
We had heavy/freezing rain and snow across most of days one and two with our hardest day involving around 8-9 hours of hiking in soaking conditions.
Autumn is known to be more consistently clear and is widely regarded as the safer bet for mountain views – it’s also more popular during that time too for these reasons.
Should You Use a Trekking Agency?
We used Great Adventure Treks for this trek. As mentioned in my Mardi Himal post, we’ve now done two treks with them and have found the service consistently good.
As with the Mardi Himal route, Nepal’s 2023 guide regulations technically require foreign trekkers in the Annapurna region to be accompanied by a licensed guide. Enforcement remains inconsistent, and we did pass independent trekkers on the trail, but the regulation exists and using a guide only adds to the experience. The trail is well marked in most places, but in bad weather, dense forest and poor visibility, having someone who knows the route well is not a small thing.
Poon Hill Trek Cost
We paid around $250 per person, which included:
- A licensed trekking guide
- A porter (one porter per two guests, carrying up to 20kg)
- Jeep transfer to/from Pokhara to the starting point
- All meals on the trek (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
- Teahouse accommodation throughout
- Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) permit
- TIMS card and Poon Hill entry ticket
- Equipment loan if needed: sleeping bag, down jacket, duffel bag etc
I will say all of our accommodation on this trek was a lot more luxurious than I’d anticipated, with a private bathroom, free wifi, and plug sockets in the room each night! Of course, this isn’t guaranteed and in some teahouses you may need to pay extra for certain things: a hot shower typically costs around 200 to 500 NPR, wifi where it isn’t included is usually 100-200 NPR, and phone charging in communal areas is usually also 100-200 NPR.
The Poon Hill Trek Itinerary: Our 4-Day Route
So the itinerary we took is slightly different to the common route, it’s a bit longer/tougher but so worth it as you get that extra day across the valley into Tolka which is just gorgeous! Here’s a rough run down of our daily programme:
Day 1: Drive to Upper Ulleri, Trek to Ghorepani (2,880m)
After being picked up from our apartment in Pokhara, we drove through the Annapurna foothills to a drop-off point above Ulleri, joining the main trail there rather than starting from Nayapul. From where we began, the walk to Ghorepani took only around 1-2 hours. Honestly, gladly so as then the weather started to turn on us!
By the time we reached Ghorepani, the rain was heavy and the cloud was thick – even turning into heavy snow by early evening! The village itself is cosy and well set up, with teahouses clustered together and plenty of hot tea on offer. We ate, dried out as best we could, and went to bed early knowing the alarm was set well before sunrise.
A note on what to expect if you start from Nayapul and do the full Ulleri stairs: this is a significant climb of around 1,300 metres, much of it on steep stone steps. It’s considered challenging but achievable for most people with a reasonable fitness level.
Day 2: Poon Hill (3,210m) at Sunrise, Then Down to Ghandruk (1,950m)
This is the longest day on the itinerary with 8+ hours of walking, and for us it was also the hardest in terms of conditions.
We were up before dawn and on the trail to Poon Hill in cold, foggy, drizzling rain. Many trekkers actually didn’t even bother the hike up to Poon Hill that morning, instead opting for a little lie-in but we thought, well… we’re here already aren’t we? We might as well try!
The hike up from Ghorepani takes around 45 minutes and is steep in places. At the top there’s a viewing tower, a small cluster of tea stalls selling hot drinks, and on a good day, one of the most celebrated panoramas in the Himalayas: Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre, Hiunchuli and more.
We returned to Ghorepani for breakfast, then began the long descent to Ghandruk. This section descends steeply through rhododendron forest before climbing back up into Tadapani and then down again to Ghandruk. The day had been raining on and off since the night before and would continue for most of the descent. The rhododendrons, however, were blooming in extraordinary numbers, and honestly, the mist only added to the magical atmosphere! It was a difficult day, long and wet and physically tiring, but the forest was extraordinary.
Ghandruk is a large Gurung village that sits at around 1,950 metres overlooking the Modi Khola valley. The traditional stone houses are built closely together along narrow paved lanes, and the views of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre on a clear day are stunning from almost anywhere in the village. The Gurung people have a deep history here, including a strong connection to the British Gurkha regiments, and the Gurung Cultural Museum in the village tells that story well if you have time.
Tip: If you want the most photogenic views, make sure you spend time in the old town area! Manu woke early and walked for around two hours exploring the old town at sunrise while I watched the mountains appear from the balcony of our teahouse. The morning was clear, our first clear morning of the entire trek, and we could see Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre in full.
Day 3: Ghandruk to Tolka (1,700m)
This was our favourite day, and it is the one that almost no standard Poon Hill itinerary includes.
The trail from Ghandruk to Tolka descends all the way down into the valley, crossing the Modi Khola river, before climbing back up the other side. It’s a tough day in terms of elevation change as you lose a significant amount of height and then gain it back, but the scenery is just lovely. Wide open views of the valley stretch out around you with terraced rice fields and tea gardens stepping down the hillsides. You pass through small villages and local schools, where the children come out to wave and say hello (at least, they did for us!).
The trail is far less trafficked than the main Poon Hill loop, which adds to the sense that you have stepped off the tourist circuit and into something a lot more genuine. We arrived at Tolka in the afternoon and the teahouse there, perched with views out over the surrounding peaks and valley, was one of the most scenic places we stayed on either of our Nepal treks. It was a simple teahouse, as they all are on this route, but the setting was exceptional, the food was warm and generous, and the family who ran it were so sweet.
If you are building your own itinerary with an agency, ask specifically about Tolka. Most standard routes miss it entirely and it’s worth asking for.
Day 4: Tolka to Kande via Australian Camp (2,065m), Drive to Pokhara
The final day climbs from Tolka up through forest to Australian Camp, a high point with open views over the Pokhara valley and the surrounding Annapurna range, before descending to Kande where a vehicle was waiting to take us back to Pokhara.
The drive back took around one and a half to two hours, significantly more pleasant than the drive out which, depending on your starting point, can involve a long stretch of rough mountain road.
What to Pack for the Poon Hill Trek
The packing list is very similar to my Mardi Himal guide. The main differences at this altitude are that the temperatures, while cold at night, particularly in and around Ghorepani, are not as extreme as the minus figures we experienced at Mardi High Camp. That said, if you’re going in the spring, prepare for rain more than cold.
Clothing
- 2 to 3 moisture-wicking t-shirts
- 1 pair of hiking trousers
- 1 pair of leggings for layering and sleeping
- Thermal base layers top and bottom (optional, I didn’t have these)
- Fleece or warm midlayer
- Waterproof jacket
- Warm hat and gloves
- Baseball cap for sunny days
Footwear
- Comfortable hiking shoes (I did this trek in trail runners)
- Sandals/slides for around the teahouse
- Hiking poles, we didn’t have them on this trek and our knees were in absolute shreds after!
Essentials
- Water bottle (preferably 2, with one thermos for hot water)
- Headtorch and spare batteries
- Sunscreen and lip balm (you burn fast at altitude even on cloudy days)
- Small microfibre towel
- Toilet roll or wet wipes
- Power bank
- Basic first aid including ibuprofen and blister plasters
- Insect repellent if going in monsoon season
A sleeping bag is technically not required as teahouses provide blankets, but in cold or wet weather having your own is reassuring. Great Adventure Treks includes one in the rental equipment if you need it.
Food on the Trek
The teahouse menus on Poon Hill are identical in format to every other trek in the Annapurna region, and I mean that as a compliment. Dal bhat, momos, fried noodles, soups, Tibetan bread, pasta, pizza. Generous portions, freshly cooked, and exactly what you need after a long day on the trail.
At this altitude food prices are lower than on Mardi Himal, where everything above Low Camp has been carried by a person or a donkey. On Poon Hill you are rarely far from a road and the pricing reflects that, though costs still increase as you climb.
Thukpa, the Tibetan noodle soup, remains the ideal trail dinner in my opinion. Warming, hydrating and substantial without sitting heavily. Dal bhat is always a safe and satisfying choice. The unlimited rice refill policy at most teahouses is one of Nepal’s great gifts to tired trekkers.
Poon Hill Trek vs. Mardi Himal Trek
If you are trying to decide between the two, read my Mardi Himal guide for the full comparison. The short version is this: Poon Hill is the better introduction and the better cultural trek. Mardi Himal is the better mountain experience. If you can only do one and views are your priority, go to Mardi Himal.
If you have time, do both. They complement each other perfectly.
Final Thoughts
We stood at Poon Hill in the dark and the rain and saw nothing. 3 weeks later, we stood at the Mardi Himal viewpoint at dawn in a clear sky and saw everything. Both treks were wonderful for entirely different reasons.
Poon Hill gave us rhododendrons burning red through the mist, a teahouse in Tolka that neither of us will forget, school children waving from a hillside village path, and one perfect clear morning in Ghandruk looking at Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South while the valley came slowly to life below us.
Sometimes the trek delivers the mountain. Sometimes it delivers everything else. Either way, you leave richer for having done it.
FAQs
Is the Poon Hill trek suitable for beginners?
Yes. It is one of the most beginner-friendly multi-day treks in Nepal. The maximum altitude is 3,210 metres, altitude sickness is rarely a concern, and the daily stages are manageable. The Ulleri stone staircase is the most demanding section physically, but it is achievable for most people with reasonable fitness.
Do you need a guide for the Poon Hill trek?
Since 2023, Nepal’s trekking regulations technically require foreign trekkers in the Annapurna region to be accompanied by a licensed guide. Enforcement is patchy, but the regulation exists and a good guide adds significantly to the experience.
What permits do you need for the Poon Hill trek?
An Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and a TIMS card, plus a small entry fee paid at the Poon Hill gate on summit morning. All are included if you book through an agency like Great Adventure Treks.
How does Poon Hill compare to Mardi Himal?
Poon Hill is lower, more accessible, richer in cultural experience and easier to combine with a short trip to Nepal. Mardi Himal offers dramatically better mountain views from a higher vantage point with fewer crowds on the trail. Both are worth doing. If you only have time for one and mountain views are the priority, Mardi Himal wins.
